I don’t believe The Square & Compass pub at Worth Matravers has changed at all since I was a child and it’s still the perfect starting (and finishing point) for a vertigo inducing walk along the coast in either direction and, although the westerly path towards Chapmans Pool is a quite challenging, it’s definitely worth the effort – but make sure you’re wearing tough boots and have an OS map before you start.
Having parked in the National Trust carpark, walk down the hill into the village keeping the duckpond on your right and you’ll find a path on the left to the deserted quarry at Winspit. Follow the coastal path westwards from here and you’ll come to the Coastwatch lookout point at St Aldhelm’s Head where a welcome awaits anyone who pops in. The square built chapel here (Listed Grade I) dates back to Norman times and has weathered many storms across the centuries from its position 350 ft above sea level.
Now, don’t let this easy and beautiful walk lull you into a false sense of security as it’s a heart stopping moment when you see the ground plunging away below with 219 steps down to Pier Bottom. It rises just as steeply up another 184 steps so… either go hard or go back to the pub!
If you emerge on the other side, catch your breath and take in the stature of Houns-tout Hill across Chapmans Pool and be grateful you’re not climbing that today (unless you want to of course – I never have, maybe one day…!). As you round the corner you’ll come across an unassuming Memorial Garden to the Royal Marines – so pause a moment to take in the serene atmosphere and the absolutely stunning location it occupies.
Before long you’ll see a car park on your right and you can either follow the lane back to the village or, for the more adventurous, continue on the path, through a gate and try to find the sign to Corfe Castle – looking out for a footpath on the right shortly after, which will take you across the fields and back to The Square & Compass.
If you think the walk will defeat you, just keep thinking about arriving at this wonderful pub where you order at a hatch before sitting outside at stone tables quarried at Winspit, lunching on delicious homemade pies and pasties with a pint of beer or home pressed cider. Sometimes at weekends there’s live music too. There’s no fussy menu here but who needs it after a walk like this!
